The Battle of Versailles: Fashion, French Shock, and American Joy

Versailles, a commune to the southwest of Paris, has a weighty role in history. The First World War officially ended in its midst with the signing of the Treaty of Versailles in 1919, a full six months after the fighting stopped. 

Yet, another ‘battle’ erupted at the famed Palace of Versailles in November 1973 - although, it’s not quite what you might expect. 

Pitting a handful of Americans against the French, the battle lines were drawn with needle and thread. It was a fashion show, the ‘Battle of Versailles’, a moniker allegedly coined by the now-century-old magazine Women’s Wear Daily (WWD). 

It was an occasion that marked a shift in the global fashion industry, while raising the funds to fix up a termite-infested Palace for later generations. Let’s take a look at who earned the honours back on that winter night fifty-odd years ago.

Yves Saint Laurent

The American side was, arguably, not as well known even today as the French. The latter brought Hubert de Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, and Pierre Cardin, among others, compared to the US's Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, and Anne Klein (no relation to Calvin, but, coincidentally, they founded their respective companies in the same year - 1968). 

That comparative lack of renown (plus, perhaps, a little French overconfidence) made the outcome surprising. The Americans won in a battle of eight ‘looks’. One former WWD editor borrowed a note from Julius Caesar to describe it: "Americans came, they sewed, they conquered."

Netflix immortalised the occasion in the 2021 production Halston, starring Ewan McGregor. Halston, real name Roy Halston Frowick, a fashion designer from Iowa, was on the American team in Versailles. The Battle also crops up on the website of Sun Bingo UK, where a five-reel slot called Versailles Glamour Affair features an architectural likeness of the Palace, and imagery of court nobles. 

Versailles was previously known for the ostentatious looks of Louis XIV (1643-1715), and the stylish but plain outfits of his successor Louis XV (1715-1774). Ironically, Louis XV was known for excess in life.

Changing Attitudes

The Battle of Versailles attracted an audience of celebrities and royalty. In a conversation with Robin Galvin, author of a book about the event, Harper's Bazaar magazine lists Liza Minnelli as among the American delegation. Andy Warhol, Grace Kelly, and the Princess of Monaco were in attendance.

For what might have been considered a fairly niche affair to non-fashion folk, the impact of the Battle of Versailles was felt by everyone. Fashion companies in the US shifted away from licensing French clothes to picking up native ones. 

US designers favoured "breezy", to quote WWD, outfits. They showcased light, day-to-day clothes that were easy to wear. In many ways, the US effort reflected changing attitudes to life in the 1970s, the shift away from the tradition and conservatism of the war years. 

A few decades later, the Battle of Versailles was immortalised at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1993, as one of the most important events in American fashion history. It enjoys a muted presence in pop culture, given its age, but the shock win likely still ripples through French fabric today.