Australia Resort Week Favourite Looks

Due to our upcoming print issue we had to push our monthly top ten back by a week. However we decided to peruse all of Australia resort week collections in the meantime to really deliver something that would introduce everyone who reads to some fantastic designers down under. We are really glad we managed to get this to the finish line as fast as we could and are super eager to get started on next month’s. As a reminder, Ujjesha uses the timeless red whereas Lucy’s colour of choice is the classic black.

Dior

From his continued collaborations with Luca Guadagnino to cultivating a cinematic preface out of his debut show with the hand of Adam Curtis, Jonathan Anderson’s love affair with the silver screen has long endured throughout the length of his fashion career. The liaison between the two galvanised his debut Cruise collection for Dior, an electrifying parade simulating the Los Angeles scene. As usual, Anderson’s cultural awareness shined through, while the synchrony between pieces by Californian pop artist Ed Ruscha and Irish milliner Philip Tracy was elevating. A Derry Girls reference and a getaway driver later, you have the perfect heritage Cruise debut.

Alix Higgins

Alix’s show was audacious, inspired and frankly so distinct that during cruise shows reviews it imprinted itself on me. Anything that manages to stay with the audience beyond a minute is automatically a good collection be it for whatever reasons. The graphics, the prints, and the asymmetric cuts and drapes all sang a symphony with a resounding bass drum that would make even the uninterested sit up and take notice. Indie designers have always been the ones that bring about revolutionary ideas and concepts - they dare to cross lines with everything they do and that is what makes them the future of fashion. To consistently question one’s design language, ideology and work so far is what leads to a freshness in perspective and creation; Alix manages to be new yet be true to himself.

Zimmerman

Nicky Zimmerman spun her 2027 Cruise collection out of two sun‑drenched fantasies: Australia’s 1983 win of the America’s Cup, and sailing languidly on the French Riviera. The result was a breezy collision of sport and sensuality - nautical and feminine with a somewhat practical edge. Technical sailing elements were softened with fluid drapes and airy fabrics, creating the impression of a perfectly effortless rendezvous at sea.

Fendi

Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut cruise collection at the Italian house and she delivered a wardrobe for everyone. Using different materials she delivered pieces incorporating functionality and sensuality in a classically Italian manner befitting the century old brand. It feels like a continuation of her debut show at Fendi; the motto was “Less I, More Us” and the colour palette was a majority of black and white with the occasional primary colours usage. She seems to be building on a foundational level, much akin to laying down the groundwork before constructing new floors.   

Blumarine 

Delphic and somewhat aphrodisiacal, the Blumarine Resort 2027 collection by David Koma conjured a sensual yet viable character. Inspired by the psychology behind the displacement summer can bring, the compendium married up sheer looks with tailored theatrics. Koma’s vision was firmly founded in duality, and Chantilly lace and sculptural moments made the show a sure study in floral Epicureanism. 

Tory Burch

One of the more fun collections for cruise this time around. Yellows, oranges, reds, greens, browns, stripes, pleats, patterns all combined to make a wardrobe for the ones that don’t wish to fade into the background with their minimalism. There is nothing quiet about the luxury Tory Burch provides with her designs, it’s fun, wild, boisterous and quirky. The ideal collection for those dying to live out loud in these turbulent times. As we all know the biggest parties happen when the economy and market are drowning in despair.

Khaite 

For Resort 2027, Catherine Holstein doubled down on her talent for distilling New York’s opposing scenes into something just on the right side of seductive. The collection was a case of contemporary chiaroscuro, with sharp leather softened by gossamer knits and sculpted denim offset with liquid silk. The tailoring was set for the city-dweller. Holstein’s instinct for tension was at its most articulate here, resulting in a wardrobe that was equal parts urban and beautifully confident.

Erdem

Moody, melancholic and meaningful, the first three words that pop up when one peruses the lookbook released by Erdem Moralioglu. Inspired by a trapeze artist from Texas who went by the name Barbette the collection is influenced by the 1920s and ‘30s dressing. Shot in a small space with the occasional wooden prop and the lone lightbulb hanging over the models gives the clothes a chance to capture attention and convey the story. Glamour and gorgeousness residing in the rundown, in the dilapidated. Beauty, joy and colour shining in the doom and gloom of circumstance, effectively telling the tale of Barbette.

Chanel

Matthieu Blazy has been galvanising Chanel with nostalgia, and nothing screams heritage more than taking a brand back to its roots. The femininity was there, albeit loose and instinctive; with sun-bleached bouclé and sea-sprayed diaphanous layers, Blazy’s Cruise for Chanel was light, summery, and as playful as ever. 

Hermes

Nadège Vanhée took over the west coast for her collection at the helm of Hermès. A collection very much befitting the situation - biker jackets and free flowing strapless dresses that brought the essence of LA and the long coats and blazers bringing the European chic and layering sensibilities. Aptly titled “Silhouettes on the Horizon” it was a refreshing take on the concept of clothing from her. A turn away from the bodycon pieces whilst embracing the middle ground between clothes that stick too much to the body or clothes that stray away more than necessary. She landed between both extremes, connecting both in a way that delivered beautifully much akin to a horizon.

Heirlome 

Heirlome offered a monochrome fantasy, courtesy of Stephanie Suberville. It served as a sequel to her previous collections, with trim pleating and scattered tassels serving as plays on texture, with every base covered for a Resort collection. Crocheted swimsuits and dresses, beachy drapes, and a shock of red for good measure pulled in the traditional artesanía the brand is so well-known for, and stunningly wearable trench coats and evening gowns were the cherries on top.

Rabanne

Julien Dossena continues to show why he is the right person for Rabanne. With mesh, fringe, faux fur, dropped waists and popping colours the pieces are very much aligned with the codes of Rabanne as well as giving the audience a reminder to invest in glamour again. The customers are provided with storytelling in a manner befitting the need for maximalism and audacious clothing as the industry grapples with insincerity. The collection has something for every person with a love for living and that seems to be the main motive behind Julien’s work at the helm of Rabanne over the last thirteen years.

TWP

The TWP Resort 2027 felt like a warm hug. Creative Director Trish Westcoat Pound gave us a masterclass in layering and autumnal textures, all sleek yet softened. Beige tones and relaxed styling stretched across all climates, with shirt dresses buckled beneath terracotta denim skirts and loose travel-ready sets. Shirts with leather accents and matching accessories were inherently necessary additions, with tartan and pinstripe taking an unexpected centre stage - catch us as the active  jet-setters with TWP co-ord sets this season.

Carla Zampatti

Carla Zampatti by Tanya Emon Beattie makes the list because of the collection’s inherent timelessness. A good resort collection that goes beyond being party or basics and essentially reads like glamorous pieces for every phase of women's lives. As the brand celebrates 61 years, it shows how it has managed to sustain itself over the years through consistently creating elegance through clothing. 

Anna Sui

A celebration of Marilyn Monroe and Pauline Boty has never looked groovier. Entitled The Only Blonde In The World, the Anna Sui Resort 2027 Collection was made up of 34 60’s-inspired nostalgia-laced looks, each a study of the generational artistry the collection was inspired by. Classic print denim, tweed, and mesh were the basis for vintage rosettes and lace high socks, all painted pastel in typical Anna Sui fashion. The designer herself dubbed the collection “very collage-y”, and it came out perfectly as the vintage lovechild of 60’s arts and crafts and sugary-sweet romanticism. 

Norma Kamali

Studio 54 icon Norma Kamali brought Western references (peep the cow print!) in rich browns and greens. A very Serena VDW collection - for the girls always itching to go and let loose; the girls ready to do anything in the name of living and loving. She provides pieces for the effortless, the ones that throw on anything from their wardrobe and rush, the ones that are so eager to get to living. 

Cinq A Sept

Soft colours, florals, and feathers made up Cinq A Sept’s Cruise 2027 collection in New York. Effortless silhouettes seemingly carried the line, and its appeal laid in its polished separate elements. Vibrant resort-ready dresses in crisp fabrics were the highlight of the lookbook, though the odd dark horse appeared in true Cinq A Sept fashion, such as downy-hemmed lemon trousers and a strappy babydoll dress with a floral rosette smack-bang in the centre.

Louis Vuitton 

A show which was whimsical and colourful, an ode to Keith Haring and shown at the Frick Collection. Truly New York in its essence - an amalgamation of styles, cultures and personalities. It picked up from the last LV Cruise show in NYC (Resort 2020 at the TWA hotel) with its ability to shine a light on the variety of aesthetic sensibilities that reside there. With the state of exuberance New York is in at the moment with Zohran Mamdani it makes sense for any collection (particularly resort) showcased there to be full of similar sentiments.

Gucci

I recall writing on Demna’s debut La Famiglia collection and trying to fathom what came next for him Gucci. I certainly couldn’t have imagined he’d shut down Times Square for his Cruise 2027 collection, but it was fittingly audacious. He’s only two shows in, but beneath a backdrop of Gucci-themed advertising blaring out across New York’s most iconic space, he showed heritage logo-print, florals, feathers, and leather. The star power didn’t go amiss, either; Paris Hilton took a break from Lagerfeld and fell straight into Guccicore.

Roberto Cavalli

Fausto Puglisi’s work has intrigued audiences because of his ability to continue the audacious nature of Roberto Cavalli’s designs. The jungle prints that are so true to the brand are brought to life with disco in mind. Escapism is a foundation for fashion and more so than ever now and what one expects from Roberto Cavalli's brand is a fantabulous party collection. This collection hits the theme on the head with a promise for more.

SPECIAL MENTIONS

Max Mara

Stella McCartney

Diesel

Tibi

Victoria Beckham

Ralph Lauren

Alemais

Bianca Spender

Aje

Monse