Saint Laurent's Anthony Vaccarello explores classic women's aviators for the SS24 collection

Now, during Paris Fashion Week, the Spring/Summer 2024 fashion calendar is coming to an end. This season has emphasised wearability and a return to basics. The magnificent installation at the Eiffel Tower, which celebrated the House's 70-year history, was inspired by era-defining pilots. Catherine Deneuve then offered a lovely narration, and Sebastian, a French producer, built a soundtrack that was presented to the prestigious audience.

In order to relive a traditional Saint Laurent show, Vaccarello invited friends, families, and famous guests, such as Kate Moss, Hailey Bieber, Austin Butler and Zo Kravitz, to SS24. The marbled stage, which was exquisite and sophisticated symbolises the strength and beauty of French women. Incorporating sensual and stylish casual designs, the designer paid homage to Saint Laurent's founding principles.

Inspired by era-defining female aviators and pilots, Vaccarello created a dynamic collection based on practicality that reflects their ruthless powers. Following khaki-coloured bottoms and buttoned tank tops, the look was a collision of masculinity and femininity with pockets and jumpsuits that were tied at the waist. All the Saint Laurent accessories were present, too: A pair of oversized sunglasses, a head covering, sky-high heels and a pair of leather gloves.

In safari coats and pleated bottoms saturated in burgundy, brown, and cream, polished Saint Laurent, women walked down the catwalk while wearing sheer tops that highlighted the human form. Classic shapes included unbuttoned shirts and dresses in the cargo style, while low-cut necklines could be seen on gowns made of dazzling satin.

Nearly all of the 49 designs in this collection, including the caftan-inspired dress, alluded to those iconic Saint Laurent silhouettes. Naturally, Vaccarello also infused a little of his distinctive style, switching up the customary beige and tan tones for brick red hues, caramel yellows, and deep marigold hues.

As a result, Saint Laurent nails every stylistic note in each past collection while maintaining a feeling of humour and enjoyment. Vacarello continues to play around with aviation rules here, but it never comes out as juvenile or caricature-like. The SS24 collection from Saint Laurent was fresh and outrageous while paying homage to the House's intrepid origins.