Pauline Dujancourt AW26: Walking on Eggshells

For the AW26 season, Pauline Dujancourt continues her purpose in highlighting the distinct impact that women and feminine energies have on the wider creative landscape. Drawing inspiration from witches throughout history, she aims to platform the very women who were caught up in the 'Witch hunts' that left them to evaporate from our collective memory. Close to no monuments exist of these very individuals, therefore Dujancourt's offerings present an homage to the spellbinding souls and their impact, otherwise forgotten.

Instead of being able to look to the unique and powerful origins of witchcraft, the women of this mysterious and whimsical world are repeatedly rendered into ugly, undesirable, and oftentimes scary caricatures. Negating their impact and historical significance. Dujancourt draws on this as inspiration for the latest collection -- paying mind to the magical process of working with materials as delicate as tulle, chiffon, and hand knit fabrics. 

The collection's central theme and name, Walking on Eggshells, comes to the fore throughout the British Fashion Council NewGen space. Throughout the duration of London fashion week, 180 Strand is repeatedly transformed between collections -- completely unrecognisable from one designer to the next. In Dujancourt's case, the room was spaced apart between seated benches, while plaster castings, reminiscent of shattered eggshells, littered the walkways and what would soon become the catwalk.

The runway opened with Sienna by The Marias, expertly playing into the ethereal feel of the environment and each passing ensemble as dresses and skirts fluttered past attendees. The opening track absorbed us into the whimsical world of her latest designs, really driving central themes of magical femininity home. Audience members were in awe of the attention to detail and expert craftsmanship that comprised each of the distinct looks.

This season's collection is a reflection of the beauty and power that exists as a result of relationships formed between women -- both as they build community and craft inherently unique garments. As ever, Dujancourt's ensembles shine by way of their inimitable detail, and expertly positioned embellishments. Each of which tie the unique creations into one cohesive collection. Colourways were neutral and cool-toned, playing into deep blacks, pale seafoam, muted teal, light purples, and grey.

Models donned crocheted gowns, sheer paneling, and layers of pleated materials, as they traipsed over broken eggshells. With each passing step, they smashed the littered bits of plaster beneath their feet (an experience the audience happily indulged in themselves, on the way out of the venue). This extra detail aided to drive home notions of revival and building life anew with their passing stride. Combining delicate lace, hand crocheted flowers, fluttering chiffon tendrils, and tulle macramé, the AW26 collection was reminiscent of Dujancourt's unique style -- yet presented something entirely new.