Masha Popova SS24: Monster

The Ukrainian-born designer returns with a high-energy sophomore collection.

When entering the Old Selfridges Hotel, the first thing to note was the dimmed space and electric atmosphere surrounding the unveiling of Masha Popova’s sophomore collection.

Building on the pace of her debut spring/summer ‘23 collection Popova’s second collection is an electrifying run, centred around the towering body of a monster truck and its merging with the human form.

Aptly titled ‘Monster’, the collection forgoes seasons, instead proposing an entirely versatile wardrobe of transversal pieces. With fluctuating hemlines in precisely manipulated textiles, Popova’s source material speaks for itself. Mechanically inspired dye patterns decorate trouser hems and snaking tyre prints punctuate floor-length maxi skirts. The trousers in question are a resounding success; featuring a tongue-in-cheek cut-out at the waistband, the placement and styling are simultaneously rugged, cheeky and deliberate.

While the designer’s appreciation for textile manipulation is apparent in a range of fabrics, Popova’s love for denim prevails and this season sees her collaborate with circular denim makers, ISKO. The result is a bold and unapologetic denim range, processed and manipulated to create a jagged and entirely unique surface.

The rest of Popova’s offering is arbitrarily cool, featuring a slew of skin-tight cropped styles and halter necklines - all modelled and translated across a range of bodies for a collection that exudes energy and a confident nonchalance.

While the collection evokes the power and ability exhibited by these monster trucks, it is also a reflection on the emotions that the Ukrainian designer has faced in the past year. Delving into Popova’s psyche, the collection translates the designer’s emotions into a show of strength, power and conviction.