Casablanca PFW Menswear 2023- The new peace

“It’s almost like people who were in the war, but left it to join the party. So they keep their uniform but only wear hearts and flowers and beauty as their medals”.

Before Charaf Tajer presented his mystical military collection, he took to the podium. Like a diplomat against a garland warplane, the audience became his civilians’ patient and waiting. Like previous shows, they expected a humorous proclamation from the Moroccan-French, London-based designer. The previous spring/summer show had caused quite a stir with real-life horses. However, what they didn’t anticipate was a sombre oration.

The emotive speech detailed the inspiration for The Peace show. He started with an allegory from a close friend Maya, who told him about young refugees who despite the turmoil they face continue to find courage and joy in partying. This inspired his journey to Damascus in which he was engulfed by the dichotomies of the human experience. He found their “humanity, generosity, and relationship. It was a great reminder for me to celebrate life in all conditions. “

Thus this collection emulated his newfound appreciation of life. The pieces were optimistic, courageous, theatrical, retro and painfully beautiful. In the demilitarized uniforms married with the jumpsuits, tennis and ski wear “It’s [was] almost like people were in the war, but left it to join the party. So they [kept] their uniform but only [wore] hearts and flowers and beauty as their medals”. Tajer incorporating a checkerboard allowed him to mirror the tiles found in Damascus and the majority of the Middle East. In doing so he brought his Arabic culture to life. His experience with the resilient young people in the warzone is what gave him the courage to embrace his heritage

I think it’s reductive to say the pieces missed the mark or were detached from the speech. The aim wasn’t to solve suffering through clothes or encapsulate the refugee’s plight. No, the collection was a representation of life’s paradox. As in while we’re here watching luxury pieces float across the runway, there is a homeless family elsewhere. There are partying refugees in a war zone. From this, we reflect on our blessings and along with Casablanca we find peace in our own shortcomings