At Ahluwalia SS26, Love Becomes a Physical Force

Naum Gabo-inspired constructions and Bollywood colour palettes create a physical language of affection at London Fashion Week.

A model opens Ahluwalia’s SS26 show in a brown trench with contrasting lapels, styled with a Nigeria

Pinstripe tailoring with embroidered Ahluwalia branding, layered over a printed shirt at SS26.

A scarlet halter-neck jumpsuit with draped neckline and circular waist detail at Ahluwalia SS26

"Ahluwalia’s SS26 “Affinity” collection at NoMad London reimagined belonging through structure, contrast, and cultural reference, blending tailored silhouettes, rich draping, and reference to Nigerian and Indian heritage with contemporary London pragmatism"

Priya Ahluwalia’s SS26 show, ‘Affinity’, opened to the sound of a live violinist at the NoMad Hotel on Saturday. The theme was love, and this collection proposed it as a physical, almost architectural force against a system of knots, bonds, and structural turbulence, marking a distinct pivot for the designer. Whilst Ahluwalia’s skill in translating her Nigerian and Indian heritage into a modern London context is well established, ‘Affinity’ moved beyond a narrative of identity to offer audiences an exploration of the universal emotion.

Love's dual nature of stability and unpredictability was articulated through tailoring and looseness. In charcoal wool and burgundy, the tailoring provided a defined, structural anchor, like the security of a committed bond; but this security was thrillingly shattered on a blazer, where a dense fall of crimson fringe swaned across a shoulder, almost as an agent of love's chaotic and passionate side. This principle of taut lines against moments of release (a concept Ahluwalia links to the sculptures of Naum Gabo) presented itself across the lineup, most notably in the knotted dresses; a long-sleeved brown silhouette was caged by black fabric bands that twisted around the torso, creating a form that powerfully evoked the feeling of both an embrace and a strain.

"Knotted bands representing embrace and restraint at Ahluwalia SS26"

With recycled denim laser-etched with the playful, nostalgic iconography of cherubs and mixtapes, the palette drew its power directly from Bollywood cinema, a specific language of passion expressed through scarlets and rubies, whilst saturated fuchsias ran riot across everything from paisley-print blouses to knee-high boots.

Denim etched with cherubs reasserted Ahluwalia’s sustainability practice through romance and play

Fringe became volatility; a dress in perpetual motion against the collection’s grounded tailoring

Minimal separates; Ahluwalia’s idea of love as uniform, stripped back but unflinching

Printed shirting with wide tailoring balanced heritage motifs with a lived-in ease

Asymmetric denim warped into wrapped fastening

With 'Affinity', Ahluwalia has broadened her scope. By translating the complexities of love into a sophisticated and technical design language, she offers clothing as a form of emotional intelligence. The achievement here is in the balance; high-concept ideas about intimacy are grounded by the pragmatic reality of pairing relaxed tailoring with PUMA Suede trainers.