Shigeru Kaneko’s Outdoor Expedition Book 99 is a meticulously curated homage to the craftsmanship and functionality that shaped modern outdoor apparel; through 99 carefully chosen entries — ranging from battered mountain parkas and feathered down jackets to pragmatic cagoules and ingenious layering systems. Kaneko draws a line between survival necessity and enduring style. It illuminates the cultural and technical stories woven into each garment while offering collectors, designers, and outdoor enthusiasts a compact yet authoritative guide to the garments that made exploration possible.
NW: What led you to make OUTDOOR EXPEDITION BOOK 99, and how did you decide what
to include?
SK: This is the book about my collection. I wanted to create an outdoor version of the
Japanese magazines I admire, but in English so readers outside Japan can understand why
these garments are special. I have collected expedition down jackets, survival suits, sports
shirts, patches and old catalogues because those items reveal the technical and cultural
stories behind the clothes. The project gained momentum when the Outdoor Recreation
Archive in the U.S. contacted me after seeing my catalogue posts; documenting and sharing
these materials felt like the right next step. The book is not an end point but a way to build a
community around vintage outdoorwear.
NW: How does this archive influence your work at BEAMS PLUS?
SK: The archive is a foundation, but it is not everything. At BEAMS PLUS we reinterpret
classics from the 1940s–1950s, and I am always thinking about how garments were
constructed, which fabrics were chosen and what original purpose those details served.
Studying originals allows us to translate those details into contemporary pieces. It is not pure
nostalgia; it is practical research that informs how we design.
NW: Nostalgia and function often sit together in collecting. How do you reconcile them?
SK: Nostalgia appears in fabric, colour, brand tags and catalogue images; those things create
an immediate feeling. But alongside that feeling are practical questions: why is that pocket
here, why that stitch, why that colour? Catalogues and labels reveal the intent. Appreciation
becomes both emotional and analytical.
NW: Which discoveries were most important while making the book?
SK: My expeditions were research visits and catalogue hunts rather than mountain climbs.
Rare items — survival suits and unusual expedition down jackets — often turned up through
close collector relationships. One dealer friend gave me a survival suit because he knew I
was making the book. Those personal connections shaped the project.
NW: Why include sports shirts, patches and non‐Japanese material?
SK: Sports shirts and patches travelled with climbers and outdoor communities because they
are durable and practical. The founder of Patagonia, for example, wore European sports
shirts when climbing; sportswear and outdoor gear overlap. Patches identify teams and
groups and are part of the social fabric. Including these items shows how American and
European outdoor culture influenced Japan.
NW: How should readers use the book?
A: Use it to understand why colours, pockets and constructions were chosen, the functional
reasons behind the garments. That context helps you see outdoor wear beyond aesthetics
and informs how to collect, wear and reinterpret these pieces.
NW: How does BEAMS PLUS set itself apart culturally, and what is next?
SK: Directors and buyers at BEAMS grew up in the company, and many began as sales
associates; that lived experience makes them true clothing enthusiasts. We practise
onko‐chishin, learning from the past and applying a modern twist, through ongoing
collaborations. As BEAMS approaches its 50th anniversary in 2026, I expect the brand will
gain broader recognition overseas and continue to spread its cultural influence globally.
NW: What advice do you have for young buyers and creatives starting out?
SK: Be passionate. Let your love for objects and experiences show in your work. If you
approach things with that enthusiasm, interesting opportunities and people will follow.
