For SS22, Lebanese-born Parisian designer Rabih Kayrouz presents us with a poetic reimagining of the modern woman. Simultaneously whimsical and meticulously prepared, Kayrouz’s portrait is of an individual chasing adventure under all its forms. The result is a collection that spans comfortably across its categories, offering a rich variety of styles, all loyal to a singular breathy silhouette.
If the designer has opted for a more fluid motif this season, perhaps much can be explained by a change of mentality. Choosing to move away from ‘themes’, this season Kayrouz’s collection follows a character, a story. The choice of character arc allows the designer to move organically through his collection, and the result is a body of work that feels both crafted and exceptionally free-flowing.
Throughout the presentation, what underlines the wearability of the garments is the elegance imbued into their construction. If the silhouettes appear simplistic at first glance it is because of Kayrouz’s gift for the trompe-l’oeil, as the designer infuses modern takes on traditional pattern cutting to elevate each of the looks. Clean, contrast stitching and misplaced seams work together to create movement in otherwise structured pieces, while billowing, voluminous sleeves and ruched detailing breathe life into floor length gowns.
Ultimately, Rabih Kayrouz has designed with a traveller in mind. At a time when crossing borders becomes increasingly challenging, this collection comes as a welcome form of escapism, allowing us to dream through the movement of the clothes and the expression of the character. A warm, golden hued silhouette supports the optimism of the collection, while echoing the luxurious feel and sartorial elegance the house has been recognised for. As the winter cool sets in, perhaps we could follow Kayrouz’s lead and allow ourselves to be guided by the warm hedonism that this collection suggests.
Previous collections are also available to view at 24 Mount Street, Maison Rabih Kayrouz’s new Mayfair flagship store.
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