Rory William Docherty discusses sophomore LFW show

Rory William Docherty introduces his brand in his own words as the second collection is showcased at London Fashion Week. Following up from a stellar debut last year, he presents “What Ties Us Together” to continue the story from last season’s

NW - First and foremost what is the brand RWD and who is RWD the designer, the mind? 

RWD - I'm Rory William Docherty, the designer and the man behind the brand. I’m a romantic pragmatist, and my approach has certainly evolved.

The first Rory William Docherty collection was a slow process. Initially I avoided designing garments, focusing on the creative process, but my drawings evolved into paper maquettes, enlarged into life size distorted shapes, and in spite of myself I began draping fluid and sculptural forms.

I wanted to create something personal and new, but still beautiful, unapologetically so, relatable but not of the moment, like a lingering dream.

The pure form of self-expression, has evolved into a brand which balances the practical and poetic. The textile prints are all based on my own drawings and paintings. That is still the foundation of my design practice and is the catalyst for each collection.

NW - Where do you take your inspiration from and does it change every single season or do you have a few you turn back to?

RWD - Inspiration certainly evolves and overlaps. 

I am often triggered by what is happening around me, in our immediate community, broader environment and global social, economic, environmental and political climates. 

The aesthetic inspiration is diverse and often seemingly disjointed, but always a result of external observations and internal reflections. From urban environments, architecture, artist movements, literature, and the abundance of inspiration in nature. 

As a result a visual language, house codes, known tried, tested and trusted fabrics reoccur. I am not trend-driven; I have no interest in being in, or cool, and then subsequently not.  

NW - Last year I had the opportunity to come see Tides (the last SS show, the brand's debut at LFW). Is this year’s show something that continues that story or are we going to witness a “novel” plot?

RWD - Oh, thank you for attending. I hope you enjoyed the show last year?

NW - My pleasure! It was stunning - absolutely loved the shoulders on the blazers and the prints! Very very New Zealand.

RWD - Thank you! To answer your question - I think and design carefully, considering what we’ve produced before, what customers have purchased, and the direction I would like to continue in. It’s important to me my customers can be confident in purchasing a piece, knowing it will work back with pieces they have bought previously, as well, as can be added to and built upon on season to come, so there is a conscious mindful continuation.

The title of the collection unveiled this season is 'What Ties Us Together'.  'What Ties Us Together' explores shared values, mutual respect, a care for craftsmanship and the collective subconscious that echoes through creatives. It’s a natural step on from my last collection, ‘Identity’, which was an exploration of people, place and provenance. 

NW - Within the current landscape of fashion, art and culture; where does RWD position itself? Who are the people you create for?

RWD - Honestly, my customer is very diverse. 18 year olds to 80 year olds. Women, Men, Non Binary and transgender individuals. From various ethnic backgrounds. The commonality, what makes them modern and timeless is they all have an appreciation of craftmanship and quality, and a love of creativity. I believe my clothes allow them to express their individuality and creativity. I’ve had the privilege of dressing people for their most special moments. Being able to bring joy into someone’s life through my work, and seeing the how transformative, uplifting and empowering it can be is so fulfilling.

I also love seeing my pieces being worn every day, I make clothes to be worn. Seeing someone wear the painter's shirt years on from its original inception, that's really rewarding. There is a growing appreciation for art prints, one off pieces, and jewellery being acquired by individual art collectors internationally and institutions alike. We are traversing fashion and art, offering clothes built to be lived in everyday, to occasion pieces, and now finding a broadening audience for the original artworks that begin each collection. 

NW - LFW has always been about the young kids on the scene showing out with brilliant ideas and designs. Stuff that is not being done or discussed. How does RWD fit into this? 

RWD - It has, and  it's great to see established brands and designers return this season too. I supposed I'm not consciously thinking about how does RWD fit into LFW. I don't want to feel that presenting at LFW is shifting the brand focus, what we create or how its positioned. The collections should stand on their own with a point of view regardless of where they are shown. 

That said, on a personal note I am delighted to be back at LFW Sept '26. London was my old stomping ground for the best part of my 20's. A pivotal time where I learnt from the shop floors of Yohji and Miu Miu about fabrication, construction, merchandising, the power of identity, experience and craftsmanship; through to the production rooms of multinational suppliers and international manufacturers. To present my own collection again at London Fashion Week, as you say, undeniably the stage of the most cutting edge of global talent, feels reaffirming and stabilising, as we look to the future.

NW - Have you started conceptualising for AW? Do you have a mood board or an idea yet? If not then do you have a process by which you plan on inciting one? 

RWD - Actually yes! As I design there are pieces, sihouettes, fabrications, details that I work on, and in editing, may not feel right for this season, but become a head start on the next.