Poet-Lab’s Functional Fashion Makes Its Mark

"The London-based brand’s SS26 collection, “Resistant When Opposites Break,” finds strength in contradiction with a lineup of fractured yet functional staples."

"The collection's attention to construction was evident in the details, where sculptural forms met repurposed denim and gleaming metallic accessories. Credit: Marcus Hartelt"

At St John's Church on one of the final evenings of London Fashion Week, Giuseppe Iaciofano’s Poet-Lab presented a compelling argument: that true resilience is found not in perfect harmony, but in the beauty of a clean break. Titled "Resistant When Opposites Break," the capsule collection explored the friction between strength and collapse, imagining what happens when polarities splinter to produce clothes that are fractured yet functional.

A sculptural, off-shoulder top in black taffeta meets raw-edged denim

Classic menswear shirting is reimagined with an oversized, fluid silhouette

Weightless, transparent fabrics created voluminous shapes that played with concealment

An oversized, textured black shawl becomes a protective garment

"The ambitious range of the collection was clear on the runway, moving from deconstructed taffeta and sheer layers to subversive takes on traditional shirting"

In just fifteen minutes, Iaciofano presented an ambitious vocabulary of style, moving from chic and streetwear to punk and grunge without the result ever feeling overbearing. Beautifully constructed trousers, satin blouses, and layered denim maxi skirts came together in a series of looks that could be reconfigured for multiple contexts. A floral kimono dress, for example, offered a moment of pure fluidity, demonstrating the collection's versatile spirit.

A simple black tank dress is given a conceptual twist with a sculptural, padded hem

Transparency and fragility, expressed through a sheer tie-front blouse, grounded by faux-leather

The collection's minimalist pieces explored vulnerability through sheer fabrics

Asymmetric draping on a black top and layered skirt creates a look that is both fluid and functional

"The lineup's more minimalist looks demonstrated a focus on wearability, with sheer layers and conceptual details elevating foundational pieces"

This versatility points to the collection’s core strength: a profound and welcome focus on wearability. These were not disposable, single-use designs, but garments intended to be worn repeatedly, their value measured in cost-per-wear. The tan corset jacket, the multi-layered denim skirt, and the leather bags (a collaboration with Anema) were presented as intelligent staples around which a real-world wardrobe could be built.

A deconstructed gown embodied the collection's theme of finding freedom in fractures

Contrasting panels of fabrics demonstrated the collection’s playful, considered clashing approach

Voluminous panels of brown faux-leather and black fabric were combined to create a powerful gown

"The collection’s strength lay in its diverse silhouettes, moving from architectural deconstruction to powerful gowns that used contrasting materials to great effect"

Poet-Lab’s commitment to quality and necessity gives the collection a feeling of both immediacy and permanence. The result is a lineup that speaks to the working woman as much as it does the life of the party, blending a clear attention to construction with a raw, modern sensibility. Iaciofano has created clothing that embodies its own manifesto: that true strength is found in what survives a fracture.