LFW SS25: Masha Popova

On the third night of London Fashion Week, Masha Popova stunned a full audience with her SS25 collection. The seats of 180 Strand were quickly filled with eager eyes awaiting the newest looks from the Central Saint Martins alumn following the success of her celebrity dressings, collaborations and previous collections.

Contrasting fine-tuned details in the looks for a more explorative ‘rough around the edges’ style, the show followed the story of a girl on-the-go. Rushing out the door with a carefree mentality depicting the brand's freedom in expression and vulnerability to have fun amidst the everyday chaos. 

Nothing is taken too seriously, the visible thong above jeans and dresses is a symbolic statement for Masha Popova. The caricature sunglass frames added to the ‘everyday matured style’ the collection portrays. A realistic view of the brand’s customer, sophisticated yet flawed with no barriers to how they care to be perceived. Whether it be in bright colours or muted neutral tones, each piece will stand out in its attempt to bring attitude to the surface. The collection saw references to styles reminiscent of the 1970’s from oversized glasses and deep plunged cuts in crushed velvet dresses. Trends from 1990’s from 3/4 length denim and black leather bottoms and asymmetrical seams all made an appearance in the show.  

Mini dresses with keyhole cut-outs, one-pieces and mesh underwear in an array of blues, burnt oranges and brown shades all played a part in the substandard art of the 33-year-old designer. Gold statement jewellery pieces dominated many of the looks in the form of broaches, single earrings, belt buckles, buttons and claps. Masha brilliantly paired the collection’s daring dresses with pointed-heel pumps and stilettos while clashing the bodycon silhouettes with the customised adidas Superstar 82 collaboration. 

A repeated technique was the construction of reverted upside-down layers on top of midi and maxi skirts in both denim fabrics and jersey cotton. The cohesive denim ensemble particularly stood out. A silver zip placed on top of a midi skirt completed with the same-fabric scarf draped on top of an open long-sleeve jacket sealed with a gold clasp. The playful variations of materials and prints created a collection of fun unpolished feminine styles. It felt like an opportunity to bring to life the outfits we aspired to wear as young girls through ‘dress up’ games on old computers or from our first fashion drawing books. How do we keep this confidence to be carefree and bold in our dress? Masha Popova believes in leaving the buttons undone, leaving our underwear to seep through and loosening the traditional appropriations of womenswear for something a little less formal.

The show fulfilled a yearning for nostalgia, and bold expression exceeding expectations in the designer’s establishment to grow into the next age of the brand. This collection is sure to set the buoyant mood for the exciting future of Masha Popova.