How Did A Relatively Niche Workwear Garment From 1874 Become The Most Ubiquitous Fashion Garments

There hasn’t been a garment in history like the classic blue jeans. Since their introduction 150 years ago, they have become a staple item in people’s closets, with everyone from high-fashion designers to streetwear enthusiasts and blue-collar workers incorporating denim into their everyday wear. However, there is one specific style that has been omnipresent since its introduction on May 20th, 1873 – the Levi’s 501s.

Timeline

First introduced in 1874 after Levi Straus, a San Francisco-area wholesale dry goods wholesaler, & Jacob Davis, a tailor in Reno, Nevada were issued a patent by the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office for a garment called “waist overalls”.

The item took existing denim workwear overalls and simply cut the overalls off. The pants featured had a single back pocket with the world famous Levi’s Arcuate stitching design, a watch pocket, a cinch, suspender buttons and a rivet in the crotch… completing the 501s.

Originally made from 9 oz. XX blue denim from the Amoskeag Mill in New Hampshire, they were sewn and finished in San Francisco. Intended as a durable workwear garment for miners and cowboys in the American West, Levi's 501s were not considered a casual fashionable item and were only worn by those who needed durable clothing for physical labor.

However, as we moved into the 20th century, blue jeans began to gain popularity beyond their utilitarian purpose. In the 1920s and 1930s, Hollywood films romanticized the image of the rugged American cowboy, and blue jeans became associated with this idealized vision of American masculinity. This association was reinforced during World War II, when American soldiers wore blue jeans as part of their uniforms, cementing the pants' place in American culture.

Side note: at this point in the 501s history, Levi’s began purchasing denim from the famous Cone Mills in North Carolina up until the mill shuttered operations in 2017.

In the post-war years, blue jeans continued to gain notoriety among teenagers who were rebelling against the conservative values of their parents. In the 1950s, greasers wore leather jackets and blue jeans as 501s became part of the uniform of disaffected youth across America, kicking off the pants' association with youth culture, rebellion and counterculture – similar to how we think of jeans today.

During the 1960s and 1970s, blue jeans became a symbol of the anti-war and hippie movement, with tie-dyed washed denim becoming a popular DIY fashion statement. On the other hand, this period also saw the rise of designer jeans, with brands like Calvin Klein and Gloria Vanderbilt introducing high-end denim that could be worn as luxury garments rather than just function.

Japanese citizens have been fascinated by denim after seeing American soldiers, stationed in their country during World War II, start wearing denim as part of their uniform. During the post-war years, the Japanese public began taking on various pieces of Americana with jeans at the forefront of this cultural shift to the west.

The popularity of jeans in Japan really took off in the 1970s and 1980s, when Japanese companies began importing vintage American jeans and selvedge denim looms while using traditional Japanese weaving techniques to recreate classic Americana wear. This resulted in denim that was not only high-quality, but also had a unique texture and appearance. Remember the White Cones Mill plant that closed in 2017? Can you imagine where those near 100 year old looms ended up?

With a strong emphasis on craftsmanship and attention to detail, Japan is currently home to a thriving denim industry, with many small-scale denim makers and major manufactures like Levi’s producing high-quality jeans through traditional Japanese and American techniques. Some of these Japanese brands include Momotaro, Evisu, Iron Heart, and Samurai Jeans.

NIGO, the man who started Japanese streetwear staple A Bathing Ape and HUMAN MADE, recently linked up with Levi’s to produce a special pair of vintage 501s.

Through American Cold War propaganda, blue jeans and cola became a symbol of freedom and rebellion for East Germans. Levi’s and Coca-Cola were a rare commodity in the communist state, and owning a pair of 501s or consuming Coca-Cola was seen as a sign of wealth and individuality. As the Berlin Wall between East and West Germany began to fall in 1989, East Germans flocked to West Berlin to purchase blue jeans, with some waiting in line for hours to get their hands on a pair of 501s. The popularity of blue jeans during this time reflected the desire for freedom and self-expression among the people of East Germany, and the role of the garment in anti-communist Cold War propaganda continues to be felt today.

During the 1980s and 1990s America, Levi's 501s were embraced by the growing punk and grunge subcultures, who valued the pants' durability and anti-establishment connotations.

On the other hand, as Hip-Hop began to grow, artists began incorporating baggier denim fits into their wardrobe. A decade and half after its birth, major artists, like Jay-Z and Diddy, launched their own fashion labels in Rocawear and Sean John respectively with denim at the forefront of their offerings. Black culture, via icons in Hip-Hop and the NBA, the baggy blue jean became the de facto look of the next two decades – until we shifted our sensibilities to slimmer fits during the late 2000s and early 2010s.

With nearly every fashion company including denim in their offerings, the Levi’s 501s continue to be the most popular pair of jeans among a diverse range of people 150 years later. The bottoms have been worn by everyone from rock stars to street style icons, they have been featured in countless fashion editorials and on construction sites across the globe. The Levi’s 501s can be seen worn by American presidents to everyday people.

Pop Culture Importance

But what is it about Levi's 501s that has kept them relevant for over a century? For one, the pants' durability and quality construction have made them a reliable wardrobe staple that can withstand years of regular wear and tear. In fact, many believe, like wine, the pants get better with age.

Additionally, Levi's 501s are versatile and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. Whether worn with a t-shirt and sneakers or dressed up with a blazer and loafers, the pants can be styled in a variety of ways in a variety of settings.

Beyond their practical qualities, Levi's 501s also hold a significant place in American culture. The pants represent a specific vision of Americana, one that is rugged, blue-collar, hard-working, and rebellious. This image has been perpetuated through countless films, television shows, and advertisements which has contributed to the pants' enduring popularity.

Hegemonic ideas of American masculinity aside, Levi’s has been a longstanding ally of various marginalized groups in history. With their corporate offices located in San Francisco, the brand has extended itself to local queer communities for nearly 40 years. From helping distribute educational materials about HIV/AIDS in the 1980s, extending medical benefits to unmarried domestic partners in 1992, and expanding their non-discrimination policy to protect trans employees, the brand has been making an effort to welcome all regardless of their identity.

Today, Levi's 501s are a symbol of the democratization of fashion. Unlike designer jeans, which can cost upwards of thousands of dollars, Levi's 501s are accessible to a wide range of consumers. This accessibility, like the Converse Chuck Taylor All-Stars, has made the garment a symbol of American culture that can transcend social and economic boundaries and across international borders.

In recent years, blue jeans have continued to hold a significant place in pop culture. Designer brands like Vetements, Bottega Veneta and Off-White have incorporated denim into their collections, while streetwear brands like Patta, Supreme and Palace have released regular collaborative collections with Levi's.

Blue jeans, particularly Levi's 501s, have become an iconic item in pop culture. From their early use as workwear, to the association with rebellious youth culture, and now their continued popularity among a diverse range of communities, blue jeans have become a symbol of American style and culture. Their versatility and accessibility have made them a ubiquitous staple of past, present and future fashion.