From Valentino to Tamara Ralph, The Real Luminary At The 98th Oscars and Beyond Was By Far The Fashion

Image Courtesy of The Academy

The Oscars took place last night, an event flooding both the fashion community and social media with the scope to judge the stars from within our very own duvet dresses. While I’m a girl with the tiniest bit of loyalty-fueled adherence to adoring certain brands, everyone outdid themselves in one facet or another - Dior was ritzy, Chanel was all zest, and Balenciaga was downright sexy. There were more than a handful of moments worth the pause over and, amid all that spectacle, my personal gratitude list is fairly short and sweet: firstly to Valentino for dressing Anne Hatheway in such an exquisite piece, and then to Anya Taylor Joy for rocking up to the Vanity Fair Oscar’s party in archival John Galliano promptly after. And yes, that is Anna Wintour. Thank you for asking. 

Blazy went bold this year with a bright and blocky rendition of an off-the -shoulder wrap gown, a ruby neckline complimenting the carnation pink beneath for none other than Oscar-winner Jessie Buckley. Teyana Taylor’s Chanel piece couldn’t have been further from the Grace Kelly-esque bubblegum fantasy: sleek, sharp, and tigrine, it boasted glitter stripes and mesh to boot, all ending in a gorgeous Blazy trail of feathers - and if that wasn’t lovely enough, her daughters’ names were sewn into the mesh. Speaking of plumage, Nicole Kidman’s Chanel number was positively angelic - feathers looked as if they were falling from the waistline down to the hem, a visual technique we’re absolutely enamoured with. Taylor was dressed in a similar vein for the afterparty, wearing backless couture with cascading chain detailing, while Kendall Jenner’s dress reflected Taylor’s ceremony gown in its shine and silhouette. Feathers have been extremely on-trend lately either which way you look at it, but the form and fabric work seemed to orbit the same gravitational pull towards Blazy’s instinct for more intrepid refinement, the very energy that we’ve been seeing on his runways lately. The plush balance is still there though, and equally admirable.

Images Courtesy of The Academy

It’s easy to love where Sean McGirr’s McQueen has been going so far, and the brand hoisted the curtain on Kylie Jenner’s irresistible custom mermaid gown this morning; with thousands of bugle beads scrupulously sewn into the bodice to create a swooping shine along with layer upon layer of twirling pieces of tulle for the flare, it was a true statement piece for the afterparty. Along with Barry Keoghan’s embroidered lapels, we got to see that stunning handiwork up close and personal. And in a way, both looks felt like a quieter manifesto for McGirr’s tenure so far - a commitment to the look and feel of the thing, a touch of theatricality, and a total willingness to let the technique speak for itself. It’s a direction that feels confident. And while we’re on conviction: my my, Tamara Ralph! The brand put on ashow and a half, two gowns in particular flattering the likes of Suki Waterhouse and Pink Pantheress in eccentric bliss; coque feathers for her and Miss Alba, while Waterhouse wowed in a crystal peacock top with a satin and chiffon corseted skirt and cape respectively. 

This writer would not be this writer without mentioning any of Jonathan Anderson’s designs, and Dior delivered ardour in a box. Golden girl Mia Goth carried a stunning lace gown, switching to one that was all business in the front, frills in the back for the afterparty; Mikey Madison sported an alluring velvet off-the-shoulder dress with a high leg-slit; and Anna Wintour channeled The Devil Wears Prada in a black lace jacket over an embroidered floral dress. Rose Byrne’s piece, however, was the triumph: a haltingly romantic amalgamation of flowers on a strapless form-fitting gown. There is a particular electricity in watching a house as storied as Diorallow itself to be re-enchanted, and Anderson’s hand is unmistakable in the way these women seemed to orbit a shared sensibility without ever collapsing into uniformity - though Amy Madigan’s silk feather jacket was obviously a favourite of Anderson’s if social media is anything to go by, and why not? Though I do need to know if Wintour’s sunglasses were also Dior.

Images Courtesy of The Academy

The astounding behind-the-scenes glimpse at atelier hands crafting custom couture is beyond the best part of any major event in culture, and the sheer amount of handiwork that went into Anne Hathaway’s groundbreakingly floral mermaid gown was magnificent. It wasa wonderful nod to her late friend Valentino Garavani following his death, and the flushed brocade contrasted beautifully with the black silk and matching belt and gloves. Maude Apatow also showed her allegiance to the brand in a Valentino red gown, while Isha Ambani radiated a gentle, romantic charm in a spring‑kissed look crafted from champagne‑hued fabric. Its surfaceagain wasalive with soft, floral embroidery, and the fitted bodice gave her frame a refined and sculpted elegance.

Image Courtesy of The Academy

Honourable mentions of course go to Balenciaga for warming things up in sheer with Hudson Williams and Rachel Sennott, Connor Storie in of course in matching Yves Saint Laurent, while Hailey Bieber’s custom leopard-print Armani gown was entirely understated. Harris Reed served an even bolder leopard pattern on Odessa A’zion at theafterparty, its edges finished with inky fringe and shoulders sculptural feats. Dua Lipa was also all sparkles; it was Daniel Roseberry’s wonderful Schiaparelli for her, a body of black velvet with a cascade of layered gold tassels making up the front of the skirt. These looks rounded out a modishly successful night, and I think what the event ultimately underscored was how much thought, craft, and house-centric personality went into every piece. Between the archival pulls, the meticulous handwork, and the designers leaning into their own building instincts, this year’s red carpet actually felt refreshingly assured. It wasn’t about shock value; it was more clarity of vision, and if this is the tone the season is continuing to set, then it’sa promising one.