This latest Couture Week has certainly been one to remember. There has been a litany of memorable moments that will remain in the minds of the fashion focused for years to come. Yet even in this glittering field, Fendi’s elegant blend of streamlined futurism and quintessential glamour couldn’t help but stand out.
Kim Jones, FENDI's Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear, draws inspiration from Karl Lagerfeld's futurism in this latest collection. The focus is on a humanistic approach to the future, emphasizing the body, silhouette, and handwork of couture. The collection seamlessly blends structure and decoration, creating a "human futurism" that combines elements of the past with the present and future.
Craftsmanship plays a crucial role, with skilled artisans contributing to the fusion of simplicity and pragmatism in FENDI Couture. The collection introduces a new 'Scatola' - meaning ‘box’ - silhouette, emphasizing precision geometric pattern cutting and incorporating materials like silk gazar and super kid mohair. Crocodile leather is also a recurring element. Each of these providing a tactile and innate allure, reminiscent of dance.
Embroideries play a significant role, intertwining decoration and structure, creating a futuristic skin with feather-like fringes and organic shapes. The collection extends the concept of the 'couture ensemble' to include fine jewellery and introduces the idea of precious practicality in accessories. Fine eyewear, designed by Delfina Delettrez Fendi, is tailored to individual facial scans and realized in 18k white gold and diamonds.
The show also features a collaboration with composer Max Richter, whose score echoes the theme of "precision and emotion" in the collection. Overall, the FENDI Couture collection explores a harmonious blend of structure and decoration, embracing a humanistic vision of the future.
Kim Jones has expertly placed his stamp on this Couture Week, emphasising the humanity of fashion. Those wearing the clothes and the effect it has on them are what is prominent. This refreshing take providing another dazzling entry in this illustrious house’s storied legacy.
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