Threadking: Building an African Fashion Identity That Travels

Threadking is a perfect example of what consistent creative direction can build over time. The brand’s approach to indigenous textiles, accessories and African cultural heritage elevates a bigger picture about how designers can work with what already exists while developing an identity that people can recognise as their own. With Threadking making its exhibition debut in The Gambia and Jamaica this year, and more to come, there is also a conversation to be had about what it takes to take African fashion into new markets without losing the identity that makes it distinct. He spoke to New Wave about Threadkings' materials, the thinking behind the brand, the importance of building a recognisable design language, and the structures required to grow beyond Nigeria.

You work with indigenous materials, but your work isn’t simply about recreating the past. How do you honour traditional materials while making the outcome distinctly your own?

At Threadking Studios, our work centres on sustainability and redefining African fashion through textiles and accessories. We believe in honouring our roots and culture while presenting African fashion as it is.

There is nothing we are doing at Threadking that has never been done before, or that will never happen elsewhere. We exist to give a voice to the movement of African fashion and to help people recognise that our fabrics and fashion can stand confidently on international platforms. We are part of a movement, and our approach is about redefining what already exists.

If we stripped away the colours, prints and materials, what would still make someone recognise a Threadking garment?

Over the years, we have been able to tell a story, and that story is our authenticity. One of the visions for Threadking is for our community to recognise our work even in our absence. That is how intentional we have been about building an authentic brand. Beyond the materials themselves, one thing that distinguishes us is how deliberately we style our garments. There is always a signature that makes someone look at a piece and say, “This is Threadking.”

You have spoken about giving life to materials through creativity. What do you believe a designer brings to a material that wasn’t already there?

Threadking Studios isn’t just another fashion brand filling a space in the industry. What we do is give life to materials through creativity. A garment is lifeless until a designer works with it. As I mentioned earlier, we are part of a movement. We are not claiming to invent something entirely new. We are redefining what already exists and finding ways to express it through our own creative voice.

You have said that African fashion needs to own its story without losing its identity. What does that require of designers today?

We need to practise sustainability as much as we preach it. We also need to own our stories and reflect who we are without losing our identity. When you see a Gucci bag, you can recognise it. Over time, the brand has established a consistent visual identity and a particular storyline without losing its value. There is nothing wrong with designers creating new outfits for different events or occasions. But if we want the world to recognise who we are, we must embrace sustainability in our approach and become more intentional about the identities we are building. Threadking has developed its approach around local materials. But building a business around those materials is another challenge.

What needs to happen for a brand to grow beyond Nigeria?

I would say we need to build a refined structure, from sourcing and creating mood boards to production. Structure helps you build something and sustain what you have already built. If your brand is going to operate globally, it needs systems that can support that growth. It also comes down to your team. The people you work with need to understand the vision and what is expected of them. That is what we are currently working on at Threadking Studios. We are putting structures in place to help us serve a wider community, both locally and internationally.

You have described Threadking as part of a wider movement in African fashion. How do you take that movement beyond Nigeria?

It is something I ask myself all the time: how do we take this movement beyond the shores of Nigeria? I believe Africa and the wider world need to experience this movement. Which brand inspires you in its approach to sustainability and the use of traditional materials? I would say Eki Kere. They are a brand that inspires us, and we love their approach to sustainability and the way they honour fabrics. When we started Threadking, I also asked myself what we could do differently while maintaining our own voice and avoiding simply looking like other brands.

If one of your garments entered a museum fifty years from now, what would you want it to tell people about African fashion today?

I would want people to walk into that museum and understand why African culture and tradition are so important. Our pieces reflect Africa’s rich cultural heritage. We want people to see how our fabrics can be preserved, how much we honour craftsmanship, and how African fashion can be understood through its purest forms as well as its contemporary expressions.