Natasha Zinko SS27 Review: Pay Per View

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When discussing surveillance and reflection, typical conclusions can be that street cameras, phones and other modern technologies have allowed for everyone to see everything at all times. However, Natasha Zinko’s SS27 show at London Fashion Week chose to interrogate human behaviour when people are conscious of their audience, i.e how people behave when they know they're being watched.

In collaboration with OnlyFans, this collection sought to provoke themes of freedom and power, as the varying chants, songs and dances built an atmosphere of entrapment. Zinko has established a sharp eye for detail and story-telling in her previous collections, with Pay Per View being the latest of her efforts. 

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An eerie ambience was set by loud, echoing opera singing in Italian, from a lit up balcony on the top-right. Minutes later, a DJ blasted tunes of opium/trap music from the bottom left corner, with crashing sounds filling the room as the models appeared.

The collection had several contrasting pieces, including full latex looks and breast-clad walks, to grungy streetwear styles and Western edge. All of the looks were highlighted individually in the small boxes the models stood in, acting out scenes based on their attire and repeating. The spectacle featured 42 looks, with all of them calling for attention based on the acted scenes. Creating a further  immersive experience, the models wandered through the front row crowd, offering an up-close-and-personal look at the curated designs. 

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Following weeks of uncertainty about which stars would feature in the show, celebrity icons Katie Price, Kelly Osbourne and Drea de Matteo all made appearances in their own personalised looks. Katie Price was spotlighted first, dancing sensually in a black waistcoat and shorts ensemble. Next, The Sopranos’ Drea de Matteo made a cameo, in tan velvet double-waisted joggers and an ivory trench coat, smoking a cigarette. Finally, Kelly Osbourne was suited up in a halter-neck white shirt and a black distressed-seamed pencil skirt. 

 “Pay Per View” examined the limit of normal composure people have when under constant scope, by  illustrating various jobs, roles and settings under one roof. Hosted in a weathered panopticon in North London, the show began as a clear fashion show but ended as a social commentary on hyper-observation.