MM6 Maison Margiela Autumn/Winter 21 Review

In the same manner that our world has been turned upside-down, MM6 Maison Margiela’s Autumn/Winter 21 collection is centred on reversal. Shot on location at Maison des Métallos in the 11th arrondissement in Paris, this collection subverts traditional Margiela motifs to reimagine iconic pieces. The collection’s dynamism arises out of the dichotomy of reconstruction and destruction that’s at play; tops are reversed, seams are exposed and traditions are constantly being reconstructed and destroyed. For the most part, the colour palette is relatively innocuous with different shades of brown and black being a thematic constant throughout the show. However, the use of fuchsia really adds a new dimension to the collection, bringing it to life in a sophisticated but also playful way.

Taking inspiration from French cabaret in the 1920s, the collection film features a club akin to Club Silencio in David Lynch’s Mullholland Drive. The atmosphere feels familiar but surreal and the collection’s film feels like it was directed by Hitchcock; the viewer is brought into this intimate world that MM6 Maison Margiela have created as the camerawork weaves its way through the club. This works synonymously with the music used in the film. Taking inspiration from early 20th century French avant-garde composer Erik Satie and the environmental sounds of mid-20th century radical American composer John Cage, the music sways between haunting and brilliantly dramatic, complimenting the clothes and the cinematography perfectly.

A closer look at the collection:

LOOK 1

This look features the garment that utilises the fuchsia theme in the most fascinating manner. We get the full spectrum of the collection’s colour palette here with fuchsia, brown and black all making an appearance throughout this look. The satin top is the highlight of this look; it's simplistic but also compelling, especially in combination with the fuchsia satin gloves to match. There is a subtle sensuousness that oozes from the way the top sits on her shoulders.

LOOK 16

There is something instantly striking about this look, it embodies all the thematic elements of the collection; from the reversed faux fur teddy bag with zips, to the exposed trousers. This look is both simultaneously mature and childlike. The leather jacket elevates the elegance of the outfit whilst the teddy bear bag ensures that a sense of playfulness is still instilled.

LOOK 18

This look stood out from the rest with its brown shearling jacket that is also reversible, accompanied with a matching reversible Japanese bag. The jeans are slashed at the back, giving them a rugged and raw feel which contrasts nicely with the clean-cut and urbane aesthetic of the jacket. The way this look is styled is confident and self-assured.

LOOK 19

One of the major motifs throughout Margiela has been the lab coat, which has been reimagined and redefined over the years. The signature MM6 lab coat makes an appearance again in this collection in a brown shearling style, similar to the previous look. This look epitomises the collection's tendency to subvert traditional Margiela motifs.

The MM6 Maison Margiela x Eastpak collaboration also debuts in the film. MM6 deconstructs the tenets of Eastpak’s signature canvas backpack and bum bag, making them entirely reversible and the collaboration includes 5 styles in 3 different colorways featuring woven back to front MM6 Maison Margiela and Eastpak labels. These will be available from September 2021.