Marie Lueder — Dressing The Ghost Before It Dresses You

Lueder presented the ghost of my life at the Newgen catwalk space on 180 strand and for 10 minutes, we were transported to another space and time.

Marie Lueder has always operated in that in-between — between folklore and functionality, vulnerability and armour, romanticism and ruin. But this season felt sharper. More intimate. Less costume, more confession. 

The show opened in a way that felt ritualistic rather than theatrical. There was a tension in the room — not loud, not chaotic — but thick. The kind of silence that feels intentional. Like something is about to be summoned. 

And then came the silhouettes. 

Medieval references ran through the collection elongated tunics, blade-like tailoring, pieces that felt almost ecclesiastical — but they were grounded in Lueder’s now-signature language of technical wear. Jerseys clung to the body like memory. Layering felt protective rather than decorative. Hoods, wraps, drapes — garments that are shielded, concealed, suggested. 

It wasn’t historical cosplay. It was emotional archaeology. 

The tarot-card show image — a blindfolded figure holding two crossed swords against a dark shoreline — suddenly made sense. The collection felt like that exact image translated into fabric: restraint, duality, quiet conflict. Softness paired with steel. 

There’s something distinctly European about Lueder’s darkness. Not dystopian, not cyber — but folkloric. Weather-beaten. Coastal. It feels pulled from old stories and filtered through contemporary fragility. This wasn’t armour for battle. It was armour for existing. 

And in a cultural moment where so much fashion screams for virality, Ghosts of My Life whispered. Which somehow made it louder. 

What makes LUEDER compelling right now isn’t just aesthetic consistency — it’s emotional coherence. The brand understands that clothing can hold memory. That garments can act as both protection and exposure. That nostalgia doesn’t have to be soft — it can be sharp. 

By the final look, it felt less like we had watched a runway and more like we had witnessed a séance. Something had been called forward. Something unresolved had been dressed and released.