Fred Perry by Fredrick John Perry

The icon brand Fred Perry has been a part of British culture for 70 years, and there is no sign of the brand slowing down with the expectation of the Black and Yellow M12 polo shirt.

Dario Catellani (2019) for Fred Perry

Who was Fred Perry?

Fred Perry isn't just the name of the brand. Rather, the brains behind the brand, who for many years kept British tennis in the top ranks. Coming from a less privileged background, Fredrik John Perry wasn't the public's favourite. Born in 1909, Perry grew up in a working-class household in the northern parts of England. It's been described that when he won for Britain countless times, the crowd seemed unbothered. It seemed as if he never really fit in. After the Second World War, Perry wanted to reinvent himself in the US and focus on business rather than just the sport. One of his business ideas was The M12 tennis shirt. 

Fred Perry

The M12 Shirt.

In 1952, Fred Perry designed and wore his shirt on and off the court. The next shirt, the M12 shirt, became the turning point from sportswear into streetwear. The classic twin-tipped collar and sleeve became the iconic look of Britain for years to come. People loved the particularity of Perry’s polo shirts. They were comfy, functional, relatively cheap, and still high quality. All sorts of groups wore Fred Perry's clothing. Ranging from Skinheads to famous English musicians and now the far-right, trump-loving group called ‘Proud Boys’.

Skinheads and Fred Perry.

The ‘early skin-heads’, which were prevalent in central England during the 60s, were working-class people who were strongly anti-establishment. The blue-collar upbringing started to be celebrated amongst this group; it wasn't something to hide. The group began to adopt other subcultures like mob fashion and Jamaican music. The M12 shirt created a sense of belonging to this group. 

The second wave of skinheads introduced a more punk-inspired style along with the UK mod style and Jamaican-British rude-boy subcultural influences. Many skinheads felt apolitical, but this rapidly changed as members started to become associated with far-right, fascist and neo-nazi organisations. Putting a bad reputation on them and, ultimately, on Fred Perry. 

Two skinheads in Southend, UK, in 1979. (Photo: Virginia Turbett/Redferns)

Musicians and Fred Perry

Many British musicians like Gwen Stafani, Alex Turner, Amy Winehouse, Gorillaz and Skepta have worn Fred Perry and collaborated with the brand. Wearing or collaborating with the brand didn't mean these musicians shared far-right beliefs as some skinheads did. The shirts are a symbol of the British working class and a symbol of nonconformity; they form a sense of community among all sorts of people. The Amy Winehouse collaboration stands out amongst the others—only one year after the release of the collaboration, Amy Winehouse passed away. Since then, 20% of the net revenue from the collection has been donated to the Amy Winehouse Foundation. Fred Perry is a brand that acknowledges its community, whether good or bad, leading me to the next group.

Gorillaz and Fred Perry Campaign (2021)

Proud Boys and Fred Perry

Moving on to a different beat and different country, in 2020, the group Proud Boys appropriated the Black and Yellow M12 Perry polo. The group started to arise before the 2016 election when Donald Trump was elected. Something they supported. This far-right group used the polo shirt as a uniform, which is unlike groups in the past that have worn the top just because it's been a fashion trend.  The brand stopped selling the black and yellow M12 top in North America. And realised a statement: “Fred Perry does not support and is in no way affiliated with the Proud Boys…We therefore made the decision to stop selling the Black/Yellow/Yellow twin-tipped shirt in the US from September 2019, and we will not sell it there or in Canada again until we’re satisfied that its association with the Proud Boys has ended.”(Perry, 2020). 

Proud Boys members wearing the black and yellow Fred Perry top (Photo: Amy Harris/Rex/Shutterstock)

Fredrick John Perry

Fredrik John Perry died in 1995. He probably would have never thought his sports polo shirts would cause such an uproar amongst British subcultures, and he most definitely didn't expect Trump-loving middle-aged men in North America to adopt the shirt. Fred Perry has had a long and exciting history and has been able to stay popular. Ultimately, the tennis player showed Britain that you can still be the best even if you come from the working class. Tennis spectators never accepted Perry into their community, but the whole of Britain accepted his brand. He became a part of a much larger community. Fred Perry has never been affiliated with right-wing groups, but it's essential to acknowledge the history of the M12.