Egonlab's Playful Take On Counterculture For SS23

Launched in 2019 by French creatives Florentin Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix, the Parisian brand has channelled past and present social trends throughout their works so far. Choosing to lean into a punk aesthetic for their AW22 show, displaying extremely dark cuts and raw designs, their summer show took a completely different direction, challenging any previously-instated categorisations made by critics.

Vibrant expression has long been associated with the release of systematic control. The 1980s saw Detroit Techno and Chicago House merge together to form Acid House, a genre which catalysed the modern rave scene; arguably the greatest example of youth counterculture in the late 20th century, fighting against the constraints and stipulations of their governing bodies. After years of strict isolation under COVID-19 restrictions, society is finally returning to normal, and Egonlab’s runway show captured the brightness, euphoria and expression birthed from this freedom.

Upon receiving the invitation for Egonlab’s SS23 show, I was greeted with a grinning pink cartoon rabbit frolicking amongst scattered flowers and rainbows; the tag line below reading ‘Save the Rave.’ An ode to non-conformity, the collection blended exuberant styles spanning from the free-loving 60s to the merchandised 90s, with a nod towards the 1980s in particular. Boxy blazers fitted with oversized shoulders were reminiscent of David Byrne’s greatest moments, (Talking Heads) and a boho style patchwork tracksuit made up of navy, forest and mocha tones looked like something worthy of Biggie Smalls’ closet.

Not a single pair of jeans were left unripped - social anger popularised the style in the late 1980s, as idolised rockstars persuaded every teenager in the UK that their denims simply wouldn’t be as on-trend without gaping holes in them. Most necklines were adorned with chunky jewellery pieces; dazzling seashells and crystals the size of quail eggs were strung together to accentuate each outfit.

One pair of beige bottoms had a repeated floral pattern cut out throughout, reminiscent of the cartoon flower design plastered all over the show invitation. Denim cuts were loose-fitting and flared, whereas shorts were cut short and tight, including a bondage-style leather statement piece, paired with a shirt donning the same floral pattern as the aforementioned bottoms along with a grey formal jacket. Minimalistic hoop handbags were draped over several models’ shoulders, capable only of holding jackets or sweaters. Glémarec and Nompeix paired mini-skirts and translucent shirts with thigh-high leather boots, as well as standard issue Dr Martens and high cream socks.

The pièce de résistance was a small metallic structure attached to certain models’ ears. They wrapped around the top of the ear and delicately held a cigarette inside each. Although this may not explode on the high street just yet, the experimental design brought modern utility to earrings which hasn't been seen before.

To close off the show, the designers came out to show appreciation followed by two colourful mascots dressed up as a toadstool and an eggplant; respectively referencing psychedelia and something slightly more risqué in the world of emojis.

Egonlab’s showcase in Paris embraced the positivity that is required for society to advance in times of crisis; a playful take on past trends and counterculture.