Dover Street Market Explores Raf Simons Latest Punk

Uniform, utilitarian, and pastel…Saturday’s outpour for Raf SImons spring/summer collection captured a subdued romance with a Gothic undertone. The collection premiering in September showcased an eclectic range of notes spiked with subtle detail and a proverbial craftsmanship with Simons continuing to push the menswear status quo.

A V-neck jacquard jumper in Motown blue sings with supreme sheen and is laced with intricate stripes while Italian mohair is used for a loose fitted jumper in bubblegum pink. Jumpers, cardigans, and bomber jackets that all seem to breathe a candid elegance and that detail the constructed minimalism and layering known to be the brands signature.

Simons, the Belgian who embarked on a menswear label in 95 joined forces with Miuccia Prada in 2020 and has since worked towards revamping the brands youthfulness. A Christmas knit with a tapered black skirt as seen on the runway fills in the gap between school and office, and a short-sleeved shirt in caramel and cream remarks on an administrative wit. The Orion sneakers in pastel are the tennis shoes acting as the frame to the wardrobe and are made in smooth leather with a contrasting suede heel, while an oversized blazer notes on this season’s prep school uniform offset by a host of darker palettes…a preppy punk displayed in earnest.

Story by Alexander Mays