PFW SS25 - Balmain, the Beauty & the Face

Olivier Rousteing and his squad showed up to seize the day yesterday and presented yet another beautiful chapter in his version of Balmain. There was an ode to Christophe Decarnin’s ‘80s inspired pointy shoulder look from ‘09, more of faces from the idea introduced in Fall ‘24 menswear and a nod to the parfum heritage of the Parisian luxury brand.

Balmain is about to branch into beauty and to declare their intentions of taking over the industry, there were two looks; a sleeveless top and dress (looks 32 & 33) were wearable make-up palettes. They were moulded to the model’s body and added to the fantastical allure of the collection.

The brand's DNA, the legacy and history of Pierre himself was visible in this latest offering. Exaggerated shoulders and hips interspersed with belts and cinched waists to honour the hourglass figure was a homage to the “Jolie Madame” trademark which Pierre had used in the 50s.

There were finely tailored jackets and beautifully cut dresses and skirts. Artisans had embroidered thousands of beads to create the faces that adorned the clothes. I personally wish there had been more of these pieces because it felt a little disjointed but regardless, Olivier and his Balmain squad presented something that is easily distinguishable, in its essence it is conforming to Pierre Balmain’s ideology whilst retaining Olivier’s personality.