Gucci Cosmos: A Momentous Exhibition 100 Years In The Making

A hop, skip and an 18-pound ticket guarantee access to one of autumn’s most illustrious exhibitions. For those unlucky enough to not have been able to secure a ticket for the Chanel at the V&A, the Gucci Cosmos exhibition promises to satisfy even the most unlikely of fashion aficionados.

Fist opening in Shanghai last year the London iteration is located in the basements of 180 the Strand in central London, exhibiting a multi-gallery in depth immersion into the historic house of Gucci with a large portion of its heritage on full display. Designed by contemporary artist Es Devlin, the exhibition explores era defining pieces curated by fashion theorist Maria Luisa Frisa and details the trajectory of the century old house from 1921 till the present day. The exhibition is imbued with a sense of metaphor as Devlin has referenced the cosmic revolutions and has used this as the major theme that conducts both the imagery and the mood.

From the beginning it is evident that Gucci’s rich history is one of grandeur and remarkability, as is evidenced from the first room. A foyer has been transformed into something resembling a hotel lobby with an elevator paying tribute to the days when Guccio Gucci was a luggage boy at the nearby Savoy Hotel. Hired in 1897, the young Guccio would observe the habits and aesthetics of the international elite. Inspired by the luggage designs of the hotel guests, Gucci yearned for luggage to one day bear his name and was quick to fashion cases and trunks with his signature, the famous double G…which has successfully survived the decades. In Florence, Guccio debuted his eponymous label in 1921, a house conceived with the idea of offering quality leather goods.

In the style of a haunted house, we are transported to a series of rooms that are each dedicated to a different facet of the Gucci house. Nine immersive rooms help to tell the story of the house’s Florentine beginnings from prologue to apotheosis and the exhibit culminates with a presentation from the most recent Gucci Ancora collection by the current creative director Sabato De Sarno. Reportedly, his leadership is guided by a creative vision to underscore the link between art and fashion as can be witnessed in the final installation which is inspired by his debut collection for the house.

As you wander through the various rooms, it is interesting to learn that each room features a different aspect of Gucci history, showcasing how the houses “historic codes” have been repurposed to best represent the times. For a glimpse of the houses sublime craftsmanship and creativity, elements of the exhibition have also been constructed in the window display of the New Bond Street boutique for those eager to get a preview.

The most exhilarating room by far is the pale blue rotunda styled in a labyrinth and dedicated to a selection of archival pieces, some which have never left the archives until now. Glass cases are home to some of the house’s many treasures and wooden drawers allow for viewers to see curated sketches, technical drawings, and vintage campaign photographs. From the house’s famous saddlery to a particular scarf with a plethora of vibrant color. A constellation of ideas and creativity is interwoven with a robust elan.

This exhibition also succeeds in detailing the link between celebrity and high fashion as is evidenced from the various homages paid to Princess Diana, Jacki Kennedy, Elton John and Harry Styles to name a few… arguably some of the house’s most famous customers and exampling the house’s impact on culture over the years. Fascinatingly enough there is opportunity to see in plain view how creative leaderships of the house have resulted in vastly different interpretations of some of the house classics. From Tom Ford and his minimalistic oeuvre to Alessandro Michele’s most recent take on disco attire, the exhibition documents the work of noteworthy designers and presents an amuse bouche with a curated flair perfect for an Instagram worthy snap.

Act fast, as tickets are released in time slots, and may sell out sooner rather than later. The exhibition is available from October 11 until December the 31st. .

Go check it out!

Words by Alexander Mays