A Night At The Catwalk

On a crisp late summer evening, Chopova Lowena unveiled their latest collection for ss24. A brand that is known for its allegiance to subculture, the show was titled Girl’s Tear, Girl’s Tear, and the collection is an exhibition of many first occasions for the brand, Bay 66, west London’s esteemed skatepark was transfigured into an obstacle course where models stomped to an eclectic montage of music. A diverse audience of onlookers sat distinctly at the far edges of the periphery eagerly observing the immediacy of the looks.

“Everytime I go to the bathroom my beanie flies off cuz my beanie’s so loose.” An excerpt from one of the chosen tracks sums up the intent of the collection in a neon splattered ribbon. Relaxed yet rigid, fussy yet clean, Chopova Lowena is a triumph in juxtaposition. Famous for infusing elements of punk with folk and traditional Slavic imagery, Chopova Lowena is a brand with Bulgarian roots that speaks strongly to nuance. Mediating the differences between folklore and urban dress, the brand excels with this unique combination and does so with a strict devotion to sustainable materials, artisanal craftsmanship and techniques using mainly recycled materials and deadstock textiles. Notably, it is a brand that often repurposes materials and textures to concoct surprisingly inventive ensembles each breathing its own life. With generous nods to the 1980s, this season saw a wardrobe fit for the members of a bustling skateboard subculture.

Inspired by the ancient Cornish festival Flora Day, Emma Chopova and Lauren Lowena Irons payed tribute to the Bulgarian lily of the valley flower that is traditionally worn during the festival. Held in the town of Heston each year to mark the welcoming of spring in May, the founders reportedly attended the festival this year which featured folk dances, and a pageantry telling the story of a fight between St. George and a dragon. Recorded audio snippets from the day long event seasoned the collection’s illustrious soundtrack.

Black and white ensembles, representing the struggle between good and evil directly referenced the festival and manifested itself on the runway in literal examples showcasing itself in a variety of different looks. Whimsical hand embroidered dresses and a particular pair of knickers adorned with a Japanese souvenir shop worth of nick knacks. “Lowena is growing up.” Commented the founder when asked about the more mature, sexier silhouettes on display this season. While the youthful swagger and the signature frills, pleats and crochet remained, these renditions provided clothing that saw a greater depth of character, and it will be interesting to see how this aesthetic is treated in the future. Italian and Portuguese leather bags and shoes were introduced for the first time, with decompartmentalized designs reflecting the many facets of the Lowena DNA. A bag created to be used as a toolshed, featured with compartments for notebooks, nail files and key chains, all built in. Mary Jane flats were the result of a collaboration with Uggs and fitted the soles of the models with an air of retro quirk.

Given the fact that Lowena often references skate culture in her designs, the location for the show was nothing less than perfect and the models who were all allegedly cast from the streets infused the production with a relatable style of bohemian edge. 43 looks all cohesively embodied the message for this season, which could easily be something like:

Who says a punk fairy can’t skate and slay dragons?

Words by Alexander Mays