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The Art of Abstraction in MM6's Seasonal Wardrobe

Abstraction is often a mechanism to transcend the ordinary and challenge perceptions. MM6, the avant-garde diffusion line of Maison Margiela, exemplifies this approach in their seasonal collection. The brand's methodology is one of blunt abstraction—stripping away narrative elements to present a matter-of-fact reality that is both straightforward and twisted.

At the heart of MM6's philosophy is the idea that everything is what it is—a jacket, a cardigan, a coat—and yet, through subtle modifications, these pieces transcend their traditional roles. Slits under armholes transform a cardigan into a cape. A raincoat, reimagined in mustard-colored denim, defies expectations. Quilting, typically hidden inside, emerges as an outer layer, and back pockets appear on boldly colored leggings. The length of a jacket is deliberately ambiguous, prompting one to question whether it is a dress or outerwear. A skirt lining is cut to a perilous shortness, creating an entirely new garment from a familiar one. The result is a collection that is both perfectly plain and strikingly alien.

This season, MM6 places abstraction at the forefront with pieces like a pillowcase-turned-top, the print an exact replica of hotel pillows where the MM6 team often stays. Yet, this abstraction carries a sense of being "damned." This damned quality manifests in various ways: raised shoulder lines for hunched postures, an abundance of zippers, and a concert graphic that appears repeatedly across different garments. The collection features geometric statements reminiscent of Bauhaus angles and lines, often rendered in total black for a stark, dramatic effect.

For MM6 AVP SS25, standardized archetypes are transformed into extraordinary pieces by drawing from the archives to create versatile, twist-filled looks. This conceptual wardrobe both adheres to and defies the idea of generic foundational pieces, distorting familiar dress codes to emphasize individuality. Classics are reconfigured and recontextualized with playful design constructions, allowing for multiple styling options. Details such as patches, visible stitching, washed-out colors, and raw finishes, along with treatments like fringes, washed cotton, and distressed silk, evoke the humanist authenticity of pre-digital times, adding layers of soul and texture. Volumes are creatively manipulated, resulting in unexpected shapes and silhouettes that cater to the wearer’s sensibility and attitude.

For women, traditional garments like trench coats, biker jackets, and tailored pantsuits are reinvented with slashes and twists, transforming them into asymmetric tops and dresses. Sleeves dangle or are cinched to create distinctive draped volumes, while signature column silhouettes and ultra-brief mini skirts challenge conventional perceptions of clothing and accessories. For men, iconic staples are elongated and combined in hybrid forms, with contrasting inside-out panels and subtle Americana themes. The MM6 Maison Margiela and SALOMON collaboration introduces road-running elements, featuring reversible bombers with reflective seams and specially coated knitted sneakers designed to age over time, blending comfort with visual trickery.

MM6's abstraction is also evident in their open-ended approach to clothing. By playing with textures and repeating pieces in different fabrics, they reassess and shift the value of each item. The relentless play with length and width, coupled with the purity of geometric forms, allows for radical silhouettes that challenge conventional aesthetics.

The collection delves into the history of the Maison with camionneur cardigans and bodysuits, as well as key holders worn as neck pendants. Accessories push the boundaries of abstraction even further: irregularly shaped boots reminiscent of comic book feet, hybrid grafts of boots and loafers created in collaboration with Dr. Martens, and whimsical items like fortune cookie bags, pillow bags, and colored safety pins.

MM6's abstract vision materializes within the serene environment of a carpeted room, where walls are softened by floaty curtains and time seems suspended in neutral calm. This tranquility is occasionally disrupted by a "damned" sound score, reinforcing the collection's underlying tension and complexity.

Through blunt, matter-of-fact modifications, each piece gains new meaning and purpose. This collection is a testament to the power of abstraction in fashion—where simplicity meets alienness, and where the ordinary becomes extraordinary.