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S.S Daley Collection Is: The Power Dynamics Of British Public School Society.

S.S.DALEY's autumn/winter 21 collection delves into the intimacy and power dynamics of British public school society. Steven Stokey-Daley is a proudly working-class Liverpool native whose work is a criticism of private education's elitist traditionalism and the personal ties of school that go on to shape the ruling elite's power structures.

“This collection continues to explore the language of masculinity and dressing at Harrow and Eton schools from my own working-class viewpoint. It’s about those boys suddenly having time on their hands, the intimacy of how they indulge in leisure,” says Steven Stokey-Daley.

Stokey-Daley extends the vocabulary of his work in this Act II, which is based on the proportion play of his signature oversized Oxford bags. Fabrics are upcycled or purchased locally from responsible mills in the UK, while garments are queered and outerwear takes center stage.

The ultra-wide trousers are secured by a tie that is reminiscent of cricket pad fastening brought to the front of a tailored silk suit with a jacket cut for leisure with its deep peaked lapel. A traditional Yorkshire mill woven the silk specifically for Stokey-Daley. A Melton wool outerwear shirt jacket with vertical pockets, reminiscent of a countryman's wax jacket. The same Melton wool is used for pleat shorts, and a great coat with a collar almost as wide as the fitted shoulder.

Smocking is a recurring trend, as seen in the green silk oversized shirt with a lowered shoulder and smocking down both sides of the front placket, or a white oversized shirt with exaggerated dress shirt pleats that is hand-smocked. Meanwhile, Stokey-Daley is working on a one-of-a-kind table-cloth shirt.

Florals evoke interiors photographed by Cecil Beaton, such as large Oxford bags or a regatta trench coat made from home furnishing fabric. On a lightweight tropical wool shirt with a pocket secured by a tie inspired by a cricket cap, a ditzy floral print is used. A calf-length silk dressing gown is cut to follow the lines of a donkey jacket, with its low front yoke, and ribbed singlets and vests evoke the intimate mood of athletes at rest. Meanwhile, a T-shirt with a tile print of birds and pears, the fruit loved by Stokey-Nan, Daley's is available.

Chunky cable knit is used to make an oversized cardigan, which is worn with Melton wool trousers felted with chunky cable knit panels. A corduroy blazer with hand-crocheted roses, a surrealist take on a classic Cecil Beaton picture, and an essay on privilege, queerness, and leisure are also noteworthy.

Written by Adena Gordon (@adenaxstudio)

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