Image: Raphaele Sohier (@raphsohier) For his SS25 haute couture collection, the ever-amorphous Alexis Mabille took a simple concept, a...

Last year, Indian designer Gaurav Gupta’s atelier was swallowed in flames, the providence of a gently wisping candle lighting a shadow-licked corner.

Image: Raphaele Sohier (@raphsohier) Ziggy Chen’s penchant for portmanteaus is one of the Chinese designer’s more endearing quirks. For his SS21 lookbook, he coined the term “COLLAGEMORY” – a rag-tag, tongue-twisting rejoinder of “collage” and “memory” – to name his Dadaist strategy, choosing piecemealed human-animal hybrids as models over, you know, real people. Last season, he presented “GNARTICATE”, the unpronounceable offspring of “gnarled branches” and “intricate”, inspired by the...