Charlene Foreman
This year, London-based Turkish designer Bora Asku takes on an incredible journey of capturing his attention in leading the way back into the time of Revolutionary France during an unpleasant era of war and isolation. Influence by the life and achievements of physicist and mathematician Sophie Germain. Bora Asku creates a stunning collection dedicated to one of the brightest intelligent thinkers of the late 17th century.
As he draws us in and reminisces on the effect isolation can have on the mindset, he encapsulates her achievements of creativity and passion in his collection at today's digital showcase at Tate Britain. Bringing forth the impact of isolation and pushing people to extreme limits can have on the mind, especially within uncertain times that we are currently facing.
With exquisite styling, intricate embroidery and silhouette influence from the late 18th and early 19th-century dress attire, the renowned designer allured his audience by joining together feminine and masculine looks presented in the early-modern era and expressing Germain’s actions to rebel against strong wield figures from the opposite sex.
The creative designer wows his audience yet again with a selection of pieces from tailored velvets suits, French caps to boxed cashmere coats. He dominates masculinity and enhancing femininity playing a pivotal role in this collection. It has set off a burst of an explosion in silhouettes such as sharp, clean line tailoring matched with soft detailing, using tulle and taffeta fabric to amplify structure. He was able to show a childlike innocence with a hint of delicateness to his Autumn/Winter 21 creations.
Explore lace in a multitude of colours ranging from navy, teal, buttercream and corn yellows. Bora Asku constructs soft, defined structured shapes embracing enthusiasm and a sense of romance that sets the scene.
We pay homage to the talented designer, as this time around, he has designed his handbag line for his collection. There is nothing more satisfying than adding an accessory to finish the look. Put together by stunning craftsmanship in the finest quality of Italian leather. Bora Asku explores fabrics that display practicality and functional products matching his years of innovative styling.
Perhaps, you could say his collection has been released at the right time and here is why. The designer explains:
“Despite the 200 years between us, I felt an immediate kinship with Sophie. The isolation and uncertainty of the last year have caused me to search for new sources of hope and creativity. In that way, she has shown me that even in the bleakest of times, there is always hope, if one chooses to seek it”.
With that in mind, Bora Asku has succeeded in channelling the genius behind the woman that is Sophie Germain. With her determination and perseverance to express her femininity against all odds, she lived in a time where discrimination against women was apparent. It did not stop her from expanding her knowledge further and taken on the identity as a man. She observed the teachings from some of the bright minds of that time, such as Legendre and Gauss making their contributions and succeeding in any ideas they had to great lengths.
The collection erupts in a range that shows volume and embroidery textures in various functional pieces. Cropped jackets, capes, long tailored coats, shirts and printed dresses in colours such as white, brown, black and red combined with share elegance and feminine styling. Giving us a sneak peek, Bora Asku reflects on the passion and ambitious women like Sophie Germain, who blossomed with finding ideas within their seclusion, rebelled against expectations and willing to take a stand against discrimination in society that kept them hidden beneath the shadows.
Watching his work expand to great lengths for nearly 20 years has been a pleasure to witness. Bora Asku has proved he is a master of craftsmanship by producing exceptional exquisite creations. By tapping into the inspiration gained by Sophie Germain throughout his collection, he channels her courageousness and shines a light on current situations by creating his interpretation of beautifully crafted silhouettes, celebrating the beauty of the female form and keeping in line with his statement signature focus for demi-couture which makes him a force to be reckoned with in the Fashion Industry.
To view the rest of the AW21 collection. Click here and view highlights below.
Words by Charlene Foreman