Shona Moran
Martine Rose is a London-based menswear designer, and her self-titled brand has been a fashion front-runner since 2007.
Rose is known for her unconventional approach to presenting collections. She has famously presented her shows at interesting spots across North London, such as the covered markets of Tottenham, a cul-de-sac in Camden and her daughter’s primary school in Kentish Town. Community is at the heart of her brand, and her use of unique venues within her immediate society reflects this.
The fashion designer is inspired by her Jamaican-British ancestry, and her interaction with multiple communities has inspired her aesthetic. Rose was surrounded by a melting point of subcultures, having grown up in South London. She has a deep interest in how fashion can exhibit both individualism and belonging, and experiments with the notion of clothing items that serve as cultural signifiers.
For this FW20, Rose has collaborated with outdoor apparel brand Napapijri, for another seasonal collection of NAPA by Martine Rose. Like Martine Rose, Napapijri is known for combining innovative materials with a unique style, resulting in a contemporary take on outdoor apparel. The collaboration first came about for FW17, and since then, Rose and Napapijri have consistently supplied us with seasonal must-haves. Inspired by the 90s, the exclusive line is a fusion of high-end fashion and streetwear. Rose lucidly draws on music subcultures from the early 90s in London; the heavy focus on oversized outwear within the collection is reminiscent of the UK garage, rave and reggae scenes during this time.
The FW20 collection of NAPA continues with the motifs seen in previous seasons, including vibrant and pattern-heavy fleece jackets, parkas, knitwear and velour trousers in shades like green, yellow and red. The collection is a combination of reinvented Napapijri staples and unique pieces, all created with Rose’s personal touch. The mix of eye-catching colour palettes and subdued neutral tones, add to the retro-inspired details evident within this collection. Rose experiments with a range of fabrications and textures which define her unique aesthetic, and consistently refers to an underlying subcultural context within her design work. Although she is a menswear designer, Rose is aware of the accepted societal codes attached to menswear. She uses her designs to blur the divide between male and female fashion and presents her clothes on female models, as well as male. Her garments embrace the look of a looser fit; her boxy, sculpted outwear conceals the figure beneath it and places self-expression at the forefront, as opposed to gender.
NAPA by Martine Rose reminds us that outwear can be playful, and the colder months of the year don’t necessarily have to be dull. The collection will be available to shop later in the year. But for now, take a look at the upcoming FW20 range below.