Henry Tuppen
Memory and imagination, Ivan Frolov unveils his sophomore solo show at London Fashion Week, a collection that serves as a poignant homage to his cherished childhood in Crimea. Having spent every summer in this idyllic coastal region until its annexation in 2014, Frolov channels the essence of those halcyon days, infusing his designs with a tapestry of sensory impressions that evoke the spirit of the 90s and 00s.
For Frolov, unable to return to the Crimea, fashion becomes a vessel through which to revisit the sights, sounds, and textures of his youth, shaping his perspective on femininity, sexuality, and the boundless freedom of expression. Drawing on his sensorial memory, he conjures images of burgundy leathers reminiscent of the plush seats aboard the Kyiv-Sevastopol train, gradients inspired by the ethereal hues of Crimean sunsets, and green corduroy that mirrors the verdant pine needles glistening in the morning sun.
Yet, beyond mere aesthetics, Frolov's collection is imbued with a deeply personal narrative, woven from the fabric of his interactions with the people and scenes that populated his childhood landscape. Leather-clad women, their figures swathed in sheer fabrics, glide across the dance floors of Crimean discotheques, their allure captured in the sultry silhouettes of Frolov's designs. Meanwhile, leopard print-covered ice cream sellers, a fixture of seaside promenades, inspire a playful juxtaposition of textures and patterns that speak to the vibrant spirit of summertime indulgence.
At the heart of the collection lies a subtle homage to the Ukrainian TV series Roksolana, a tale of resilience and empowerment that resonated deeply with Frolov. The character of Roksolana, a Ukrainian girl sold into slavery who rises to become the formidable ruler of the Ottoman Empire, serves as a symbolic touchstone, her journey mirrored in the evolution of Frolov's designs. From the delicate vulnerability of her torn clothes at the slave market to the regal splendor of her reign, Roksolana's legacy infuses the collection with a sense of strength and defiance.
As the models weave through the runway, a surge of textures and colours unfurls, each ensemble a testament to Frolov's unwavering commitment to storytelling through fashion. Leather gives way to sheer fabrics, gradients blend seamlessly into one another, and leopard print dances alongside corduroy, creating a kaleidoscopic tableau of memories and dreams.
In a world where borders may shift and memories fade, Frolov's collection stands as a testament to the enduring power of creativity to transcend time and space. Through his artistry, he invites us to journey with him through the landscapes of memory, where the scent of the sea, the warmth of the sun, and the whisper of the wind become threads in the tapestry of our shared humanity.