Yasemin Warters

MFW AW24: DIESEL

Updated: Feb 23

Diesel's AW24 show was a bold departure from the norm, showing innovation that pushed the boundaries of convention. Glenn Martens elevated customer experiences to unprecedented heights, creating an impactful show that doubled as a savvy marketing move.

What truly set this show apart was the immersive experience that accompanied it. Viewers were not just passive observers; they were active participants in the Diesel universe. Thanks to live-stream cameras set up across Diesel HQ and the Milan show venue, fans from around the world were able to witness the entire process of bringing the collection to life, from fittings to styling sessions and beyond. This offers a unique node of innovation and customer experience.  

The most groundbreaking aspect of the show was its inclusivity. By opening up the studio to cameras before the show and incorporating elements like live Zoom calls into the presentation, Martens invited viewers into the world of Diesel in a way that had never been done before. It was a celebration of diversity and community, reflecting Diesel's commitment to reaching a broader audience and redefining what luxury fashion means in today's world.

In this collection, you'll find pieces that speak volumes about innovation and style. Take, for example, the jersey devoré shirt, which has a unique burnt-out look under the arms and across the chest, giving off a vibe like it's been marked by sweat. This motif extends to other pieces like tanks and plaid long-sleeve minidresses, where it feels like the body's warmth has left its mark. Then there are the denim double-breasted coats, which, when unbuttoned, reveal the original denim underneath, adding a surprise element to the design.

Another standout feature is the use of muslin bonded to jersey and then burnt out, creating a striking contrast between layers. Picture a puff-sleeve blue floral dress revealing vivid red underneath or a top with black florals exposing a hidden layer of leopard print. Faux fur coats undergo a similar treatment, with the burnt-out effect revealing intricate floral patterns below.

Leopard print dresses give off a trompe l’oeil effect, appearing as if they've been worn away to reveal denim underneath. Thick knits are used for extreme coats, jackets, and skirts, as well as accessories like hats and balaclavas, with some adorned with double-dyed faux fur covered in mesh for a graphic touch. Padded coats feature tufted faux fur forming an exploded Diesel logo, which repeats as a trim throughout the collection.

Jersey tops and miniskirts sport prints that mimic the look of knit fabric, as if they've been blown out by a spotlight, adding dimension and texture to the pieces. Multi-layered jersey tops, miniskirts, and bandeau minidresses give off an effortlessly stylish vibe, as if you've combined multiple options into one outfit. Some pieces even feature screenshots of Diesel livestreams, adding a modern twist.

Ultra-padded diamond-quilted coats offer a peek inside with a burnt-out effect, revealing coloured wadding, while monster fur coats are meticulously shaved to maintain a controlled chaos.

And, of course, denim is a key player in this collection, with pieces ranging from coated black coats to multi-layered denim jeans in various finishes. Whether coated, devoré, or jacquard, denim takes on new life in unexpected ways, embodying Diesel's ethos of challenging the norm.

Overall, this collection is a testament to Diesel's commitment to pushing boundaries and creating fashion that makes you look twice. With its innovative techniques and bold designs, it invites you to embrace your individuality and express yourself with fearless style.

Photos sourced from SHOWstudio