New Wave
Updated: Jan 3
A Cold Wall is a brand founded by the creative mind of 27 year old Leicester native Samuel Ross. since the brands beginnings in 2015 Samuel Ross has spearheaded A Cold Wall into one of the most intriguing and immersive clothing brands in the UK and some may even say the world. The brand's latest offering at London Fashion Week titled 'BIRTH.ORGAN.SYNTH' was an abstract story of discomfort and a heavy layered atmosphere. The blacked out crowd and the steel beams on either side of the runway kept the underlining theme of what a cold wall stands for.
The addition of pools to the set design were references to the migration crisis and the movement of people across bodies of water in Europe. Samuel Ross further elaborated on this implementation by saying;
" the pool closest to the audience represents the pool of fear and preservation in the age of nationalism, the pool further away is the human pull to progression … I was alluding to movement of people but also the depths of fear of a bottomless pit, and the bravery and the triumph that is required to move through to the future.
The music curated for the show was also an important element of getting the message of the production across to the audience, the base heavy music and harsh synthesizers with the stern and almost emotionless models tied in together for a very complete showcase of some brilliant garments. The clothing created by Samuel Ross and his team of designers, including Ace Harper and Jack Harper to name a few, included many ready to wear pieces such as hoodies, macs, backpacks, trainers, but all with an identity that is parallel to the ACW brand. However a few more Avant Garde pieces were worn by musician/model Lancey Fouxx, acting as the centre pieces to the collection. A polished lineup of cutout jackets and sweaters, trench coats, boxy suits and performance-inspired padded, patched and zippered trousers graced the runway in an interesting choreographed walk for the model as they would take a look over their shoulders half way down the runway.
Watch The Full Show Here: a-cold-wall.com
It is safe to say that this presentation was more than just about clothing, some may argue that the barking dog close to the end of the presentation and the actors/actresses were a distraction from a Fashion show but the underlined narrative of the event was an immersive take on ideas that inspired the clothing itself. The word Modern was a constant feature on a collection that took 6 months to develop. I believe that this FW collection is a step in the right direction from the brands beginnings and brings a totally new perspective of fashion that what currently exists. Coming off his victory as the British Emerging Menswear Designer at the Fashion Awards in 2018, Samuel Ross starts the year with an impact filled show with a distinct aesthetic.